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Cocktail Menu: Fall Drinks at Sugar House in Detroit

Here is the new fall cocktail menu from Sugar House in Detroit. 

I see: Blueberry Oleo Saccharum, Fernet/Campari/Cynar combo, Root Beer Flip. It's making me thirsty, just not for winter. 

a handsomely appointed casket. 11
Chalfonte VSOP Cognac, Benedictine, Alvear Amontillado Sherry
& Housemade Barrel-aged Bitters

AUTUMNMN OLD FASHIONED. 7
Jim Beam Rye, Apple Cider Reduction & Angostura

the bluebird #2. 10
Cocchi Americano, Wild Ale & Blueberry Shrub,
Gruet Brut & Lemon

the brown star. 10
Bombay Saphire, Bärenjäger, Far East Spice Syrup, Lemon,
Fernet Branca & Angostura

dead leaves. 9
Lemon Hart 151 Rum, Brugal Anejo Rum, Lemon, Maple Syrup,
Smoked Sea Salt & Köstritzer Black Lager

dilletante. 9
Beefeater Gin, Bonal Gentiane, Dill-infused Simple Syrup & Lemon

fake wood teeth. 9
Laird’s Bonded Applejack, Cherry Heering, Lemon,
Cinnamon Syrup & Angostura

gun street girl. 11
Fernet Branca, Campari, Cynar & Marie Brizard Raspberry Liqueur

The e.f.k. 14
Lapsang Souchong-infused Four Roses Bourbon, Lemon Syrup
& Angostura Bitters, Hickory Smoked

the night of the lotus eater. 11
Chalfonte VSOP Cognac, Lazzaroni Amaro,
Blueberry Oleo Saccharum & Lemon

mr. november. 9
Brugal Anejo Rum, Alvear Amontillado, Lemon
& Fresh-pressed Apple Juice

ROJO SOUR 9
Sombra Mezcal, Quinto do Infantado Tawny Port, Lemon,
Ginger Syrup & Egg White*

root beer flip. 10
Cruzan Black Strap Rum, Art in the Age Root Liqueur,
Cinnamon Syrup & Whole Egg*

stagger lee. 12
Laphroaig Scotch, Bonal Gentiane, Cherry Heering
& Vieux Carre Absinthe

worst case scenario. 9
Jim Beam Rye, Laphroaig Scotch, Cynar, Maple Syrup
& Bacon Bitters

dealer’s choice. Prices Vary
Pick a spirit or style of drink and let us do the rest

 

Cocktail Menu: Bourbon Steak at Turnberry Isle Miami

This is the new menu at Bourbon Steak by Michael Mina at Turnberry Isle Miami, with a cocktail menu by Carlo Splendorini.

The menu is below.

Cocktail Menu: 28 HongKong Street, Singapore

I finally secured permission to print the cocktail menu of 28 HongKong Street in Singapore. The bar program there is run by Michael Callahan, formerly of San Francisco.

The menu has a couple of shout-outs: one to Steven Liles of Smuggler's Cove, and another to me(!) for supercharged Aperol. I think this is the first time with my name on a cocktail menu, so I'm psyched. 

Rosita Revival courtesy of 28 HongKong Street

Callahan makes the Aperol variation a little bit differently than I did: mine was high-proof Aperol. His is double-flavored: He dehydrates a bottle of Aperol and adds the resulting sugar to another bottle of Aperol. 

Anyway, tons of good stuff here: I can't wait to return to Singapore and visit the bar in person. 

BARREL-AGED GOODNESS
only at 28. these gems are hand-blended and then aged
with oak right here. limited supply, so rationing applies.

Double Barreled Martinez
$25 · Unknown · 1860's ·
Father of the Martini? When it's this tasty,
does it really matter? We went extra old
school with Bols barrel aged genvever,
added the standard fixins, and let it rest.

The Ferrymen
$25 · M. Callahan · 2012 ·
Virgin Islands dark rum, Drambuie
Scotch liqueur, maraschino, and orange
bitters, aged with American oak. Salvation
served with hand carved ice.

RUM ROULETTE
rapturous rums showcased in the venerable old fashioned.
you pick the lady and we’ll doll her up the way you like.

Zaya 12 Year [Trinidad] ~ $19 ~ Rich & sweet Central American refugee.
Diplomatico Exclusiva [Venezuela] ~ $21 ~ Her name's Candy, she's approachable.
Santa Teresa 1796 [Venezuela] ~ $21 ~ Youthful character belies its age.
Rhum JM XO [Martinique] ~ $26 ~ Flavour like only the French can do it.
Renegade 16 Year [Trinidad] ~ $42 ~ Oh so special rum for Scotch fans.

SMASHBOX
a fresh and tarty little sister of the mint julep,
the smash is a beauty with all kinds of spirit.

Whiskey Smash [Evan Williams Bourbon] ~ $18 ~ The drink that started the rage.
Rum Smash [Diplomatico Blanco] ~ $19 ~ A touch of lemon, mint and rum...yes.
Applejack Smash [Laird’s Apple Brandy] ~ $20 ~ As American as apple pie.
Gin Smash [Bols Barrel-Aged Genever] ~ $22 ~ Gentlemanly nod to the old country.
Tequila Smash [Siete Leguas Reposado] ~ $22 ~ Totally owns the Margarita.

THE FOUNTAIN
prohibition was the dark age for bartenders in america, but
a new industry was eager to give them a home. let's get fizzy.

La Madre Patria
$21 · M. Callahan · 2010 ·
An Iberian-Latino love affair. Crisp
Txakoli splashes up a shimmering canvas
for blanco tequila, celery-lime bitters, &
falernum to make cultural harmony.
Hemingway's Friend
$20 · M. Callahan · 2012 ·
This sparkler rides on Wrey & Nephew
overproof rum, lemon, maraschino, and
grapefruit bitters. It would have given
Ernest's liver an earnest run for its money.

OLD FAMILIAR FRIENDS
1800’s S 1930’s
classics from the golden age through the end of elliott ness.

Golden Fizz
$21 · Jerry Thomas · 1862 ·
Hayman’s old tom gin, lemon, simple,
orange flower water, egg yolk, soda, and
orange zest. In your journey through the
world of fizzes, you have had the Silver,
now try the Golden. Next stop Diamond!
Ramos Creole Cocktail
$22 · New Orleans · Mid-1800's ·
Russell’s Reserve 6 year rye, house-made
Curaçao bitters, creole and Angostura
bitters, absinthe, sugar, water, and love.
An unjustly forgotten rival of the Sazerac.
Hard to get right, but worth it.
Prof. Marshall's Daisy
$19 · Unknown · Late-1800’s ·
Orange-peel Scotch, three fresh-squeezed
citruses, a touch of grenadine, and soda.
Named for a man who drives fast cars
in skirts, this dandy of a daisy is tall,
refreshing, and goes down with ease.
Rosita Cocktail
$23 · Unknown · 1900's ·
Sino reposado tequila, Sombra mezcal,
sweet and dry vermouths, and Camper's
supercharged Aperol made inhouse. This
gal is a bitter lover with lots of depth.
Negroni lovers, meet your next fling.
Painkiller
$20 · British Virgin Islands · 1971 ·
Steven Liles makes it best, but damn, we
try. This easy drinker has been a tabloid
darling of late. Rum, pineapple, orange,
coconut cream, nutmeg, and a lawsuit.
Sherry Shrub Cobbler
$19 · Colonial America · 1800's ·
Amontillado sherry, 72-hour housemade
shrub, and fresh-squeezed OJ. A staple
tipple at any tavern in its day. Some will
modernize it. I'm going with,
"If it aint broke, why fix it?"
Manuka Bees knees
$18 · Prohibition America · 1920's ·
Ok, so I tinkered with this one a bit...
Beefeater gin, lemon and Manuka honey
syrup. The official cocktail of the flapper
generation. A drink you can't help but
love.

PROPER PUNCH
1600’s S 1850’s
jack tar bottle service making merry for over 400 years.

Canadian Breakfast Punch
$200 · 1862 ·
Old Overholt rye whiskey, Smith & Cross
pot still rum, fancy teas, oleo saccharum,
and housemade pineapple marmalade. A mod
version of The Professor’s classic proves that
an old dog can still learn new tricks.
Farmers’ Alamanac Punch
$150 · 2012 ·
Beefeater gin, fresh fennel juice, gingery
potions, fancy teas, oleo saccharum,
housemade pear marmalade, and some
bubbly balance this bowl squarely on
the border of fancy and fantasy.


NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

Whore’s Bath
$22 · 2010 ·
She’s made a few rounds and won a few
contests. A quick rinse and she’s ready
to go again. Manuka honey vodka,
umeshu, poire william liqueur, lemon, and
Hawaiian lava salt pickled ginger.
Beginner’s Luck
$23 · 2012 ·
28‘s own Vanessa’s amazing showcase for
the lost joy of gomme! Tito’s ever-lovin’
vodka, bourbon, housemade Earl Grey
& basil gomme, and lemon. OMG, soooo
good. One for you cocktail geeks.
Joiner Fee
$20 · 2011 ·
Armed with Wrey & Nephew overproof
rum, this funky little island dweller is
ready for adventure. A mod homage to
Tiki, this drink refuses to take is self
seriously… but you should!
Hard to Port
$21 · 2012 ·
A time-consuming drink to make, but a
dockworkers delight. Housemade porter
beer reduction, rye whiskey, lemon, egg
white, and allspice dram, embittered by
“28”. It's worth the wait!
Modest Mule
$18 · 2010 ·
A variation of a variation that is so
popular... this damn drink will never leave
me alone. Lemongrass-soothed 42 Below
vodka, ginger beer, lime, rosemary, and a
Branca Menta pipette to keep it cool.
The Cottontail
$19 · 2012 ·
Bulleit bourbon, fresh carrot juice,
grilled-peach marmalade, ginger beer,
celery bitters, served long and tall for the
bunnies. Because I never did care for duck
hunting season.
Border Wars
$22 · 2012 ·
Bulleit bourbon, Sombra Mezcal,
awesome apricot brandy, a lil' latin
sumpin', & cherry-bark bitters, served
strong and straight. With flavors that go
on and on, it's heaps of history in a glass.
The Gateway
$23 · 2012 ·
Square One Botanical vodka, Cocchi
Americano, cardamom bitters, and orange
bitters. A vodka drink for gin drinkers, or
a gin drink for vodka drinkers? Beware
what’s on the other side of the door.

FUN WITH FIREWATER

300 of the tastiest bottles of artisanal spirits anywhere.
Pick Your Poison
$15 to $500
House-standard 45ml pours from our
far from standard spirits lineup. Neat,
cracked, or with a side of remarkably
fancy ice. Check the hall longboard for
options or ask the staff for counsel.
Mini Master Class
m.p.
You'll find a unicorn before you'll find
Michael with free time, but plan ahead,
be sweet, and he might just hold an
hour-long class on a cocktail or spirits
topic of your choice! Six guests max.

 

 

Cocktail Menu: New Drinks at The Alembic in San Francisco

Daniel Hyatt of The Alembic bar in San Francisco has updated most of the drinks on the "New School" portion of the cocktail menu. The menu goes live next week.

I see: cucumber ice, bourbon infused with toasted rice, pistachio cream, onion juice, walmeister syrup. Looking forward to trying these!

New School

The Vow of Silence
a rubenesque version of the derby
cocktail, we use wild turkey rye whiskey,
benedictine, creme de griotte, and a dash
of bitters. responsible for breaking more
than one vow.

Kool Thing
just in time for our indian summer, we
present this brisk little elixir. appleton
estate rum, housemade lime cordial and
soda served over cucumber infused ice
with a little cherry on top. remember to set
an alarm because we aren’t living on island
time here.

Brown Sugar
how come you taste so good? oh yeah,
that’s because we infuse larceny bourbon
with toasted brown rice and mix it up with
fresh mint, peach brandy and a touch of
chai spices. it’s the devil’s julep.

Last Caress
yeah, i got something to say, but that can
wait. first, try a little housemade limoncello
with sweet vermouth and a touch of
blue bottle coffee tincture topped with a
bit of pistachio infused cream. Then we’ll
talk.

Rise Above
when it’s time to pump your fists, we humbly
suggest you’re holding one of these.
tapatio tequila with lillet rose, fresh
lemon juice and some rose hip syrup. pink
rock at its finest.

Southern Exposure
another refreshing elixir plucked straight
from the garden, our spin on the classic
southside uses junipero gin, fresh mint,
lime juice, a touch of sugar and a little
shot of fresh celery juice. loaded with
antioxidants to help deal with the haight’s
population of free "radicals".

Shine on your Crazy Diamon
anytime of daycould be the right time for
the old morning classic bloody mary. so go
get one someplace else, we have a better
idea. on a solid base of london dry gin,
we’re slapping down a mix of red bell
pepper, anaheim chile and onion juices with
a little dash of crystal hot sauce and a
cinnamon toast crouton. ask nicely and we
might drop a raw quail egg on there for
you ($1 extra, nothing is free)

Green Fuzz
we just had to take the opportunity to kick
the old shandy in the backside. our sister
pub and brewery crafts a great german
style golden ale, but we like to drink it
with a bit of apple brandy and housemade
waldmeister syrup. jump to your feet and
let us get you high.

 

Cocktail Menu: Bravo Pizzeria Grill in Niagara Falls, Canada

I really respect the cocktail bar pioneers, those bartenders who set up a quality beverage programs in the middle of the cocktail tundra. In them, every customer transaction ends up being an educational session, as there is always a learning curve with people new to proper cocktails where there were none before. These bars can have a great impact though, and turn a small community into a thriving cocktail city. 

It seems there is such a pioneer in Niagara Falls, Canada. Nick Nemeth, a veteran of Tales of the Cocktail and Art of the Cocktail, has put together a drink program at Bravo Pizzeria Grill, a restaurant that doesn't exactly scream "gourmet cocktail experience" from the looks of its website.

Best of luck, Nick, and for the rest of us, we now know where to drink when getting hitched up in Niagara Falls. 

The list is below the jump.

Cocktail Menu: The Churchill in Los Angeles

Mia Sarazen has taken over the cocktail program at The Churchill in Los Angeles. Her introductory menu launched last week.

“The Grand Alliance” : Plymouth Gin, Carpano, Campari, Maraschino
“Hyde Park Fizz" : Nolet's gin, Bonal Quina, honey, lime, cucumber, basil, soda
“Thirsty in LA” : Correlejo Reposado, Aperol, Ciociaro Amaro, mezcal rinse
“The Iron Mule” : Russian Standard, ginger, lime, soda, bitters
“Norman’s Cable Car” : Sailor Jerry Rum, housemade curacao, lemon, cinnamon&sugar rim
“The Churchill Old Fashioned” : Old Fitzgerald bourbon, house bitters, sugar
“The Statesman" : Famous Grouse, apricot, lemon, baked apple bitters, sparkling
“Baby’s First Bourbon” : Bulleit Bourbon, orgeat, lemon, dashes house bitters
“The Bulldog" : Milagro blanco, passion, pineapple, lime, jalepeno
“Rye 2 Ways” : Bulleit Rye, dry vermouth, grenadine, lemon, up. Or add Allagash White for Fizzy & Tall.
“The Grapes of Wrath” : Kappa Pisco, lime, pineapple, whites, bitters, cinnamon
“Amelia” : Kettle One, lemon, St.Germain,violet, blackberries

Cocktail Menu: Riffle NW in Portland, OR Updates

San Francisco bartender Brandon Josie relocated to Portland, Oregon to take the job of bar manager at Riffle NW, a seafood restaurant.

I posted the original cocktail menu here. This is a menu update with Brandon Josie in charge. These new drinks go live on September 6th. 

 

HOUSE COCKTAILS:

Riffle Collins

gin, lemon, lime, celery, absinthe, salt, soda

Heights of Diamond

scotch, amaro, grapefruit, dry vermouth

Hovercraft

pepper vodka, peach, lemon, honey, egg white

Beach House

rum, fino sherry, carmelized banana, coconut, lime

Jerez Cooler

muscatel sherry, sweet vermouth, lemon, quinine, white pepper, soda

RNW Pimm's

pimm's, watermelon, lemon, soda

Luini's Gift

mezcal, amaretto, grapefruit, lime, cardamom

Ol' Kill-Devil

dark rum, mole bitters, pineapple-masala

RNW Martini

potato vodka, aquavit, dry vermouth, dockside bitters

Panache

st germain, dubonnet, IPA, lemon

TWISTS ON TAP (variations on classics, working title "Under Pressure"):

El Diablo

kaffir lime tequila, cassis, lime, ginger, soda

Americano

aperol, bonal, soda

Roman Punch

clove cognac, rum, maraschino, lemon, orange, bitters

Remember the Maine

bourbon, hibiscus-rose byrrh, cherry, absinthe, bitters

 

Texture in Cocktails

This post is sponsored by PAMA pomegranate liqueur, but written by me. 

Texture in Cocktails

Flavor and balance are probably the most important components of cocktail quality, but it's the temperature, texture, aroma, strength, and presentation that makes for a wel-rounded drink. I pay a lot of attention to texture in both cocktails and base spirits - for some reason it plays a major role in my enjoyment of a drink.

In cocktail contests, especially ones with a secret ingredient challenge, bartenders often come up with delicious flavor combinations, but the winning drink takes texture into account: maybe the drink should have been shaken with an egg white, or been stirred to a colder temperature?

Some Texture Descriptors for Cocktails and Spirits

• Thick, syrupy, not dilute enough
• Thin, weak, non-integrated, over-shaken
• Silky
• Light
• Bubbly, fizzy
• Tannic, astringent
• Soft, pillowy, foamy, frothy
• Slushy, viscous, chewy
• Crunchy
• Gloppy, chunky

Methods to Manipulate Cocktail Texture

Egg Whites - Probably the first thing bartenders think of when they think about texture is adding an egg white. This adds a luscious frothy surface atop a drink. This foam also brings any aromatic ingredients in the drink right up to the drinker's nose. One new favorite trick I found at Clough Club in Vancouver, where they sprinkled dehydrated Campari powder on top of an egg white foam. It was both crunchy and soft. 

Rims- Rimming a drink with regular or flavored salts or sugars doesn't just add flavor to the drink, it adds texture.

Temperature -  Cold drinks are more viscous than the same ones warm, but too cold is also problematic. Ever put a Martini or Manhattan in the freezer? The drink turns into a semi-frozen slurry that really detracts from the flavor. You'll also have noticed that a room temperature Sazerac often tastes too sweet. In cocktails, you're never just balancing flavor, you're balancing that flavor with temperature, and this affects texture.

Also, people who like Martinis and Manhattans shaken often say they like the floating shards of ice on the surface of the drink - could this be a texture preference rather than flavor? 

Sugar - Diet Gimlets are not very tasty. This isn't just because the gin and lime juice combination will sear your mouth with too much acid, but also because sugar gives the drink a thicker texture. (I haven't tried a Gimlet with an artificial sweetener but would imagine the texture wouldn't be so great as typically you don't need as much as you do sugar.) In modern times, many drinkers are requesting their drinks be "not too sweet" but yet this affects the texture as well. 

Some solutions to the problems of getting correct sweetness and texture balances may be found in different sugar syrups. As I discussed at my seminar at Tales of the Cocktail and learned from Darcy O'Neill's chapter in the first Journal of the American Cocktail, unheated simple syrup is thicker and less sweet than boiled simple syrup. Thus, controlling ratios of sucrose/glucose/fructose in syrups allows greater control over texture and sweetness. I hope to put up a more in-depth blog post from recent lessons learned about this subject also. 

Let's also not forget extra-thick sweeteners, like honey and gum arabic can add texture to drinks, while high-sweet sweeteners like agave nectar may reduce it. 

Dairy - Milk and cream are thicker than water, and citrus, and spirits.  

Thickeners: Pectin/Gelatin - I haven't studied this topic too much, but gelatin and fruit pectin are just two of many thickening substances that can be added to both food and cocktails to add texture. We all know about the texture of Jell-O shots and jam, and these can help to thicken drinks. Or if you make flavored syrups from high-pectin fruits, these are thicker than regular simple syrup. 

Tannins - Most associated with wines, tannins are also found in teas, nuts, and in barrel-aged spirits. Also, pomegranate. 

Pineapple- Pineapple makes drinks foamy/frothy. I'm not sure why that is and/or if you can use that property to make a vegan froth substitute in place of egg whites that doesn't necessarily taste like pineapple froth (that has its own distinct aroma). Has anyone played with this? 

 Ice - Stick a drink in a blender and it changes pretty significantly. Not only does the texture change but also the sweet/sour ratio. Blending is one way to create small ice chunks in a drink, but you can also used crushed ice, shaved ice; or to reduce thickness, big ice or no ice at all. Plus, some people like to chew on the ice for a satisfying crunch. 

 Glassware - While glassware doesn't affect the texture in a cocktail, it sure does affect the presentation and enjoyment of it. Blended drinks are served in large glasses (as there is all that extra ice), mint julep glasses are metal to add a cooling surface temperature and frosty coating to the outside of the glass, and you wouldn't want to serve a stirred Manhattan in a big margarita glass as it would warm up way too fast with a large surface area exposed to the outside. (But if you were drinking it in the Arctic, perhaps that would be a good idea...)

Bubbles - Clearly, bubbles change the texture of the drink and tickle the tongue. From using sparkling wine, sodas, and other sparkling mixers to carbonating cocktails, there are plenty of ways to add fizz to drinks.

 What have I missed?

PAMA suggested the topic of this blog post, so let's hear their word on it. 

"The quality that makes PAMA unique is its texture, which helps to offset the lower alcohol content. PAMA gives drinks a silky finish and makes the drink feel more substantial."

50/50 PROPOSITION
Glass: Snifter
Garnish: Dash Orange Bitters
Ingredients:1 1/2 oz. PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur
1 1/2 oz. Cognac

Method:Combine all ingredients in a chilled mixing glass. Add ice and stir for 40 seconds. Strain into chilled snifter set with 1 large ice cube.

Eben Freeman's Notes: PAMA's tannic structure allows it to work as a primary spirit, where it balances the strength of the Cognac. It is so well balanced between sweet and tart that it can even work as a primary spirit such as in this cocktail, where it balances the strength of its partner spirit, making it a fully-fledged cocktail with just the addition of a dash of bitters.

PAMA has a website specifically written for bartenders, with information from Eben Freeman throughout. Check it out at PAMAPros.com.