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Balance in Cocktails

This post is sponsored by PAMA pomegranate liqueur. 

Typically when we talk about balance in cocktails, we're talking about the balance between sweet and sour. We'll leave the talk about balance between strong and weak for another time. 

The category of 'sours' in cocktails (which should really be called 'sweet and sours' but whatevs) is enormous and includes pretty much every drink with citrus juice. This includes the Margarita, Cosmopolitan, Pisco Sour, White Lady, Daiquiri, and so on. 

Sour ingredients include lemon, lime, grapefruit, orange, and pomegranate juices, but other ingredients are acidic as well. Michael Lazar measured the pH of many cocktail ingredients and put them in order. I was surprised to learn how acidic the vermouths and sherries are, and it seems this is due to the grapes that comprise the base wines for them. Currently-trendy sour substitutes include shrub syrups (with a vinegar base) as well as acid phosphate, which is said to add sour sensation to a drink without the citrus flavor.

Sweet ingredients are used to balance against sour ones. These include many liqueurs (but as we can see on Lazar's chart, not all of them), plus sweetening agents including sugar, honey, maple syrup, high fructose corn syrup, molasses, and so on. 

The gold standard cocktail ratio for a sour is 2:1:1, which is two parts liquor to one part each of the sweet and sour ingredients. Of course, when we use ingredients other than lime juice and 1:1 simple syrup we have to adjust those ratios. 

Also, each bar has (or should have) a house ratio that they use. A few years ago in San Francisco, bartenders were making drinks so citric that you'd feel the enamel coming off your teeth when you drunk them. On the other side of the coin, bars that cater to younger drinkers tend to be heavy on the sugar. There seems to be an agreed-upon balance of cocktails for competitions (ever-so-slightly sour) but those drinks don't necessarily reflect how those same cocktails would be made at bars. 

For all sours, it is important to taste the drinks and adjust the sweet and sour ratio to order.  

But why would PAMA want me to write about sweet-and-sour balance in cocktails? Because their product is meant to include both in one bottle. 

PAMA’s proprietary blend of all-natural pomegranate juice combined with vodka and a touch of tequila results in a delicately balanced sweet-tart flavor that holds its own when combined with any base spirit. An extremely versatile cocktail ingredient, PAMA mixes with whiskey, rum and brandy equally well as it mixes with vodka, gin and tequila.

Here is a cocktail they recommend to demonstrate the sweet and sour balance. 

Hades' Temptation

 Dash of Simple Syrup
Dash of Fresh Lemon Juice
1/2 oz. Citrus Vodka
1/2 oz. PAMA Pomegranate

Directions: Combine all ingredients in a shaker. Add ice and shake vigorously. Strain into chilled cocktail glass rimmed with sugar.

 

Modifiers in Cocktails

This post is sponsored by PAMA pomegranate liqueur, but written by me. 

Cocktail Modifiers

Though I think most bartenders agree on what a cocktail modifier is, finding a definition of the term was tougher than expected.

Defining Modifiers in Cocktails

The first book I picked up to look for a written definition was David Embury's The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, from 1948. Embury is the king of categorizing cocktails (as is Gary Regan in his book The Joy of Mixology, but I don't think he addressed modifiers) so I figured he might have something to say. 

Unfortunately though, I wouldn't say that I agree with his definition. Embury divides cocktail ingredients into three categories:

1. The Base
2. The Modifying Agent - "It is this ingredient, in combination with the base of spiritous liquor, which characterizes the cocktail... The flavor of the modifier itself should never predominate but should always remains submerged." All good, right? But then Embury divides modifiers into Aromatics (fortified wines and bitters), Fruit Juices, and Smoothing Agents (sugar, cream, eggs, etc.)
3. Special Flavoring and Coloring Agents (liqueurs and fruit syrups).

So in Embury's definition, liqueurs are not modifiers.

However I think a more modern definition can be found in Tony Abou-Ganim's book The Modern Mixologist from 2010. Abou-Ganim writes briefly about cocktail components in a section on creating cocktails. He groups together Modifiers and Accents.

He says, "Modifiers are made up of various aromatic wines- for example, vermouth and Lillet- and a long list of liqueurs, such as Cointreau, maraschino, and creme de cassis. Accents include different varieties of bitters- like orange, Peychaud's , and Angostura- and non-alcoholic syrups-including Rose's lime juice, orgeat, grenadine, and falernum." 

Making up a definition off the top of my head, I would say a modifier is a cocktail ingredient, usually alcoholic and typically a fortified wine or a liqueur, that both softens the base spirit and adds flavor to the drink.

This isn't a perfect definition by any means. The Chartreuse in a Last Word and the Campari in a Negroni, for example, form so much of the flavor of the drink that 'modifier' understates their importance. 

Do you think my definition for a modifier works? And if so, then what do we call the non-alcoholic modifiers like citrus and grenadine? It doesn't seem that everything other than the base spirit should be called a modifier.

But anyway...

Modern Modifiers

Cocktail ingredients come and go and in the past 10 or so years we've seen some amazing products come onto the market. Classic modifiers (by my definition) include absinthe, maraschino, and orange curacao (these created new categories of cocktails when they become widely available in the US, "improved" and "fancy" cocktails), Chartreuse, Benedictine, and the like. 

The liqueur category in particular has provided us with many amazing new flavors to work with in the last five or ten years, and include products like St. Germain, Domaine de Canton, Hum Botanical Spirit, Rothman & Winter Creme de Violette, and (our sponsor) PAMA.

New liqueurs also provide the easiest way to create new cocktails- simply swap out or supplement the current liqueur or sweetening agent with the new liqueur: A Pomegranate Daiquiri or a Ginger Cosmopolitan is the easiest thing in the world to create with these new products. Of course, the new cocktails will need to be rebalancing in their sweet/sour/strong ratio, but that's the nature of making cocktails.

Using PAMA as a Modifier

PAMA is designed to be both sweet and tart, so the balancing of the ingredient in a cocktail will be a little different (and actually a little easier in some drinks) than with a regular sweet-only liqueur. On the PAPAPros.com website, Eben Freeman suggests ways to use it.

In a typical sour recipe, rather than using 2 parts spirit, 1 part sweet, and half part sour ratios, Freeman suggests using 1.5 parts spirit and  .5 parts PAMA, and keeping the same 1 part sweet and half part sour ratios.

Below is a more complicated adaptation, a spin on the Ward 8.  

Pama & Rye
By Eben Freeman

Glass: Rocks
Garnish:Orange Wheel
Ingredients:
1 oz. PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur
1 oz. High Proof Rye Whiskey
1 oz. Orange Juice
1/2 oz. Simple Syrup
1/2 oz. Lemon Juice

Combine all ingredients in a shaker. Add ice and shake vigorously. Strain into rocks glass over fresh ice and garnish.

Freeman says of this cocktail, "Use PAMA to modify classic cocktails such as the Ward 8 to be more approachable without upsetting the balance of the cocktail. In a classic drink such as The Ward Eight PAMA takes the place of Grenadine and it feels right at home. I did not create a pomegranate flavored Ward Eight, I used the PAMA to keep the flavor profile but lighten the flavor to a point where some may argue the drink is more approachable."

p.s. If you haven't noticed, there is a fancy new ad banner over to the left. Click on there (or just click here) for mixology news from top blogs and websites. 

Coming to Austin: Whiskies of the World on November 2

Whiskies of the World comes to Austin November 2. 

Progressive and vibrant, Austin is known for having more festivals, shows, and other types of gaiety per capita than any other city in US. But until recently, it was missing something…

Good news for all of us whisky lovers and artisanal spirits appreciators-Whiskies of the World, the oldest and most original whisky tasting event of San Francisco, is bringing its whisky vigor to Austin. Those who experienced a grand whisky tasting know what they’ll be entitled to: sampling of literary flood of whiskies, from your conventional whisky fix to the new and exciting whisky releases, often hard-to find or first-on the market. The whisky rivers will originate from everywhere: as close as Texas to as far as Australia and India. As always, you’ll be able to sample your way through them to choose the new picks for your liquor cabinet…and to approvingly nod to the old favorites already in there. Not the least factor to the success of your whisky casting is meeting with the global whisky ambassadors, master distillers, et all, and learning about the different production, aging, and maturation processes that make each whisky, its flavors and aromas, unique. After such an extensive outside guidance, plus the inside one, conducted by your own palate, the choice of a perfect whisky(s) becomes not so painstaking!

The event promises sumptuous food to keep you satiated between your tasting sessions (and specially created to pair with whisky). Whisky Masterclasses, a way to get real close with the whisky creators, and their creations, will be held all evening long, warm and inviting. Cigar and Whisky pairing and seminar, whisky specialty booths, bumping into the renowned whisky guests from Scotland and other whisky domains. Austin, have you ever done that?

Whiskies of the World Expo & Artisanal Spirits Fest in Austin
Friday, November 2, 2012
Hyatt Regency, 208 Barton Springs Rd.
7:00pm – 10:00pm (VIP hour 6:00pm)

Tickets (Purchase here)
General admission tickets: $120.00
VIP tickets: $150.00

This post was sponsored by Whiskies of the World.

Texture in Cocktails

This post is sponsored by PAMA pomegranate liqueur, but written by me. 

Texture in Cocktails

Flavor and balance are probably the most important components of cocktail quality, but it's the temperature, texture, aroma, strength, and presentation that makes for a wel-rounded drink. I pay a lot of attention to texture in both cocktails and base spirits - for some reason it plays a major role in my enjoyment of a drink.

In cocktail contests, especially ones with a secret ingredient challenge, bartenders often come up with delicious flavor combinations, but the winning drink takes texture into account: maybe the drink should have been shaken with an egg white, or been stirred to a colder temperature?

Some Texture Descriptors for Cocktails and Spirits

• Thick, syrupy, not dilute enough
• Thin, weak, non-integrated, over-shaken
• Silky
• Light
• Bubbly, fizzy
• Tannic, astringent
• Soft, pillowy, foamy, frothy
• Slushy, viscous, chewy
• Crunchy
• Gloppy, chunky

Methods to Manipulate Cocktail Texture

Egg Whites - Probably the first thing bartenders think of when they think about texture is adding an egg white. This adds a luscious frothy surface atop a drink. This foam also brings any aromatic ingredients in the drink right up to the drinker's nose. One new favorite trick I found at Clough Club in Vancouver, where they sprinkled dehydrated Campari powder on top of an egg white foam. It was both crunchy and soft. 

Rims- Rimming a drink with regular or flavored salts or sugars doesn't just add flavor to the drink, it adds texture.

Temperature -  Cold drinks are more viscous than the same ones warm, but too cold is also problematic. Ever put a Martini or Manhattan in the freezer? The drink turns into a semi-frozen slurry that really detracts from the flavor. You'll also have noticed that a room temperature Sazerac often tastes too sweet. In cocktails, you're never just balancing flavor, you're balancing that flavor with temperature, and this affects texture.

Also, people who like Martinis and Manhattans shaken often say they like the floating shards of ice on the surface of the drink - could this be a texture preference rather than flavor? 

Sugar - Diet Gimlets are not very tasty. This isn't just because the gin and lime juice combination will sear your mouth with too much acid, but also because sugar gives the drink a thicker texture. (I haven't tried a Gimlet with an artificial sweetener but would imagine the texture wouldn't be so great as typically you don't need as much as you do sugar.) In modern times, many drinkers are requesting their drinks be "not too sweet" but yet this affects the texture as well. 

Some solutions to the problems of getting correct sweetness and texture balances may be found in different sugar syrups. As I discussed at my seminar at Tales of the Cocktail and learned from Darcy O'Neill's chapter in the first Journal of the American Cocktail, unheated simple syrup is thicker and less sweet than boiled simple syrup. Thus, controlling ratios of sucrose/glucose/fructose in syrups allows greater control over texture and sweetness. I hope to put up a more in-depth blog post from recent lessons learned about this subject also. 

Let's also not forget extra-thick sweeteners, like honey and gum arabic can add texture to drinks, while high-sweet sweeteners like agave nectar may reduce it. 

Dairy - Milk and cream are thicker than water, and citrus, and spirits.  

Thickeners: Pectin/Gelatin - I haven't studied this topic too much, but gelatin and fruit pectin are just two of many thickening substances that can be added to both food and cocktails to add texture. We all know about the texture of Jell-O shots and jam, and these can help to thicken drinks. Or if you make flavored syrups from high-pectin fruits, these are thicker than regular simple syrup. 

Tannins - Most associated with wines, tannins are also found in teas, nuts, and in barrel-aged spirits. Also, pomegranate. 

Pineapple- Pineapple makes drinks foamy/frothy. I'm not sure why that is and/or if you can use that property to make a vegan froth substitute in place of egg whites that doesn't necessarily taste like pineapple froth (that has its own distinct aroma). Has anyone played with this? 

 Ice - Stick a drink in a blender and it changes pretty significantly. Not only does the texture change but also the sweet/sour ratio. Blending is one way to create small ice chunks in a drink, but you can also used crushed ice, shaved ice; or to reduce thickness, big ice or no ice at all. Plus, some people like to chew on the ice for a satisfying crunch. 

 Glassware - While glassware doesn't affect the texture in a cocktail, it sure does affect the presentation and enjoyment of it. Blended drinks are served in large glasses (as there is all that extra ice), mint julep glasses are metal to add a cooling surface temperature and frosty coating to the outside of the glass, and you wouldn't want to serve a stirred Manhattan in a big margarita glass as it would warm up way too fast with a large surface area exposed to the outside. (But if you were drinking it in the Arctic, perhaps that would be a good idea...)

Bubbles - Clearly, bubbles change the texture of the drink and tickle the tongue. From using sparkling wine, sodas, and other sparkling mixers to carbonating cocktails, there are plenty of ways to add fizz to drinks.

 What have I missed?

PAMA suggested the topic of this blog post, so let's hear their word on it. 

"The quality that makes PAMA unique is its texture, which helps to offset the lower alcohol content. PAMA gives drinks a silky finish and makes the drink feel more substantial."

50/50 PROPOSITION
Glass: Snifter
Garnish: Dash Orange Bitters
Ingredients:1 1/2 oz. PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur
1 1/2 oz. Cognac

Method:Combine all ingredients in a chilled mixing glass. Add ice and stir for 40 seconds. Strain into chilled snifter set with 1 large ice cube.

Eben Freeman's Notes: PAMA's tannic structure allows it to work as a primary spirit, where it balances the strength of the Cognac. It is so well balanced between sweet and tart that it can even work as a primary spirit such as in this cocktail, where it balances the strength of its partner spirit, making it a fully-fledged cocktail with just the addition of a dash of bitters.

PAMA has a website specifically written for bartenders, with information from Eben Freeman throughout. Check it out at PAMAPros.com. 

Exclusive Invitation for Bartenders from Beam Global (Sponsored Post)

Exclusive Invitation for Bartenders from Beam Global

Beam Global Spirits & Wine would like to extend an exclusive, professional invitation to you. In partnership with Communispace, we have a private online community of 300 bartenders who act as direct advisors to key decision-makers for the company, and we would like you to consider becoming a part of this group.  As a member of this exclusive advisory community, you'll agree to log in and contribute your thoughts (via surveys, discussions, chats with industry leaders, etc.) an average of 5-15 minutes per week at whatever time is convenient for you. In addition to advising and building relationships with other members, you will receive tangible gestures of appreciation for your time and energy, such as Amazon e-gift certificates in exchange for your participation.

How do you join? Complete this questionnaire. If selected, you will be notified shortly thereafter. Your responses to the questionnaire will help in the selection process and will be used ONLY for that purpose. All of your responses will be kept confidential and will NOT be used or distributed for any other purpose.

Thanks for your time, and we hope you can join us!

 

---This post was sponsored by Communispace---

(Sponsored) Exclusive Invitation for Bartenders from Beam Global

This is a sponsored post by Communispace.   

Beam Global Spirits & Wine would like to extend an exclusive, professional invitation to you. In partnership with Communispace, we have a private online community of 300 bartenders who act as direct advisors to key decision-makers for the company, and we would like you to consider becoming a part of this group.  

As a member of this exclusive advisory community, you'll agree to log in and contribute your thoughts (via surveys, discussions, chats with industry leaders, etc.) an average of 5-15 minutes per week at whatever time is convenient for you. In addition to advising and building relationships with other members, you will receive tangible gestures of appreciation for your time and energy, such as Amazon e-gift certificates in exchange for your participation.

How do you join? Complete this questionnaire. If selected, you will be notified shortly thereafter. Your responses to the questionnaire will help in the selection process and will be used ONLY for that purpose. All of your responses will be kept confidential and will NOT be used or distributed for any other purpose.Thanks for your time, and we hope you can join us!

Announcing Sponsored Projects on Alcademics

After many months of work, I'm happy to announce the launch of Sponsored Projects on Alcademics.com. 

My home experiments and longer research projects here, such as figuring out how to make clear ice, have been some of the most popular content on Alcademics, and also the most satisfying to do. Thus, I found a way to do more of them- by finding sponsors for specific projects. 

Sponsored Projects may last just a few months or indefinitely, and relate at least tangentially to the sponsoring brand or portfolio. 

This month I am launching the first two Sponsored Projects:

The Sugar Project, Sponsored by Bacardi Rum. Rum is distilled molasses, which is the byproduct of sugar production. In this project I'll be studying the history, production, and varieties of sugar and its derivatives around the world. The project index is here.

The Solid Liquids Project, Sponsored by Skyy Spirits. Bartenders have been dehydrating liqueurs for years now and using the residue as rimming sugar or garnish on cocktails. I'll be looking at this technique and trying to find some fun new uses for these flavored sugars. The project index is here.

I'll be posting at least once a week (probably more than that) on each of these projects and link them all together with an index page to make it easy to follow along.

Hopefully, future sponsored projects will follow. I've got a lot of ideas. 

(Sponsored) Bartenders Wanted for Online Advisory Community

This is a sponsored post by Communispace.  

Bartenders Wanted for Online Advisory Community

The Breakthrough Innovation Group at one of the world's largest food/beverage manufacturers has assembled a small, exclusive online advisory community to directly influence the next generation of food/beverage products and services. This community consists of leading chefs, nutritionists, fitness instructors, food writers, importers, mixologists, coffee shop owners and others passionate about the food/beverage industry. As a member of this exclusive advisory community, you'll agree to log in and contribute your thoughts (via surveys, discussions, chats with industry leaders, etc.) an average of 5-15 minutes per week at whatever time is convenient for you. In addition to advising and building relationships with other members, you will receive tangible gestures of appreciation for your time and energy, such as Amazon e-gift certificates in exchange for your participation.

How do you join? Complete this questionnaire. If selected, you will be notified shortly thereafter. Your responses to the questionnaire will help in the selection process and will be used ONLY for that purpose. All of your responses will be kept confidential and will NOT be used or distributed for any other purpose.

Thanks for your time, and we hope you can join us!